Some New York neighborhoods demand a detour from the usual NIGHTCAPS itinerary. Easy enough, since I make the rules.
So, for this newsletter, we’re simply living la dolce vita on Arthur Avenue - a true culinary destination. It’s ultra old-school and classically New York. The magic of Little Italy. Yes, the real one. Yes, in the Bronx.
We’ll sip a cappuccino on the sidewalk, we’ll worship in the house of mozzarella.
Your ultimate guide to Arthur Avenue has arrived.
Andiamo!
This itinerary is perfect for: 1-10 people
Location: Arthur Avenue
Dress code: Gabagool Girlie, Parmigiano Princess
Delillo Pastry Shop
Why you’re there: to gossip, cut a deal, and buy cookies by the pound
NIGHTCAPS picks:
Lounge around the sidewalk tables with a cappuccino (if it’s morning) or an espresso with a side shot of Grappa (if it’s morning, afternoon, or evening). Relax and enjoy the sights: everyone’s smoking a thin cigarette and exchanging wads of cash. It’s Rome, it’s The Sopranos. It’s the Bronx.
The biscotti and freshly filled cannoli are delightfully indulgent treats to enjoy with the coffee/cigarette/cash combo.
But let’s cut to it - you’re here for my favorite four-layer rainbow cookies - blindingly bright and exquisitely almondy. I’ll never accept a three-layer rainbow cookie again! I’m impossible. Take home at least a pound - they freeze well (if they even make it that far).
Casa Della Mozzarella
Why you’re there: for a deeply spiritual cheese experience
NIGHTCAPS picks:
When you’re in the house of fresh mozzarella, go big. Take at least two pounds (or a metric ton, don’t let me stop you) of the mozzarella or the smaller bocconcini to-go. It’s hand-pulled to order, and it’s going to change your life. Trust me, or else (yes, a threat).
Let the cheese sing (opera) in a perfect Italian panino. Go for the divine simplicity of Il Classico (mozzarella, tomato, basil, olive oil) or The Casa (prosciutto, mozzarella, sun dried peppers, balsamic glaze), where the paper-thin prosciutto practically melts into the cheese. I also love the Il Tartufo (prosciutto, robiola al tartufo, sun-dried peppers, fig glaze) for the savory truffle notes.
Enzo’s
Why you’re there: for a - let me tell you something about my family - meal (Real Housewives of New Jersey reference)
NIGHTCAPS picks:
Begin with Antipasto di Casa: cured meats, artisanal cheeses, and marinated vegetables (if you’ve been eating all day long, a seamless continuation).
The golden Fried Calamari is tossed in white wine, hot cherry peppers, arugula, mushrooms, and a drizzle of honey. It hits the ideal heat/sweet balance.
Spaghetti alle Vongole in a rich white wine sauce is a must. The Broccoli Rabe and Sausage is an Italian love letter: garlicky, savory, and impossible to resist.
You can only go right with red sauce favorites like Chicken or Veal Parmigiana.
Alimentari and more
Why you’re there: to find everything you’ll bring home (and eat, eventually, when you’re ready)
NIGHTCAPS picks:
Madonia Bakery has your bread game covered — from classic Italian loaves to their signature prosciutto cotto ring.
Don’t miss a stop into Teitel Brothers for imported Italian pantry items. Delicious anchovies, chocolate by the pound, unfiltered olive oil.
If it’s fresh pasta and handmade ravioli you’re after (who isn’t?), Borgatti’s is the spot.
There’s no Arthur Avenue guide without the Calabria Pork Store for dry sausage, soppressata, and capocollo (oh my!).
And that’s Arthur Avenue: the real Little Italy. Arrivederci a tutti!
In this itinerary:
Delillo Pastry Shop: 610 East 187th Street
Casa Della Mozzarella (no website): 604 East 187th Street
Enzo’s of Arthur Avenue: 2339 Arthur Avenue
Madonia Bakery: 2348 Arthur Avenue
Teitel Brothers: 2372 Arthur Avenue
Borgatti's Ravioli & Egg Noodles: 632 East 187th Street
Calabria Pork Store: 2338 Arthur Avenue
Reservations needed: None! Forget about it!
Notes: To sit down and eat your Casa Della Mozzarella sandwich right away (yes), head to the Arthur Avenue Retail Market. You'll also find fruit stands, Italian food, a bar, and even a cigar rolling station inside.
Check store hours before you go - many places on Arthur Avenue are closed on Sundays and/or Mondays.
A car is the best way to get to and from Arthur Avenue.
This newsletter is dedicated twice: To Katie & family - because when I think of my deep love for Italian food, I think of all our Christmases spent together. And to Justin & family - our day on Arthur Avenue was so special!
OMG! Every word of this made me hungry and wanting to book a flight! Our next trip to NYC— this is first on our list, and you’re coming with us!! 😘
The rainbow cookie!!! I need it.